Farewell Summer...

With the calendar now officially showing Fall is here, we begin the annual transition from bright Summer colors to the more earthy tones of Autumn. What we lose in linen and seersucker can be more than made up for however, by adding a healthy dose of wool and fleecy fabrics to survive those crisp mornings and chilly nights. 

So before you blow your summer earnings on that J.Crew flannel shirt, here's some examples of how to score Fall-Friendly items for less.

Damn....Does this mean I can't wear my fun shirt anymore?

I actually got these two lambswool sweaters from a friend who gave them to me at cost. I have a few Polo sweaters at this point and they seem to hold up fairly well. This one's color is called "Guild Purple Heather" and retails for $125 new. He also threw in a Uniglo Lambswool sweater which was actually a lot nicer than I expected, not knowing a lot about this brand. Their sweaters come in a ton of colors and cost only $40 new for 100% Merino wool. Their cashmere sweaters are about $90 but I'm not sure how thick they would be for that price.  

Two like-new sweaters for $5, not bad!
Retail Price: $125 + $40 = $165

Worn here by a Polo model with a striped blue dress shirt.

How to Wear a Wool Sweater, à la the Brooks Brothers 1981 Fall catalog.

I spotted this Corbin 3/2 Sack blazer on the racks and tried it on. To my surprise, it actually fit not too badly! The most important aspect of any jacket fit is the shoulders. Too tight and you won't be able to move without distorting the jacket. Too loose and you'll look like you're trying on daddy's suit.

The 3/2 style (denoting a jacket with three buttons, but only two visible) is quintessentially Ivy and a feature today only existing on suits and blazers from the upper echelon of prep, such as O'Connels and J.Press

Worn here with a wool tie and chinos, you can instantly look about 100x better (than the average college student) wearing a blazer. 

The brass buttons are from the Waterbury Button Company, of Waterbury, CT
This is the company that produces buttons for Brooks Brothers, as well as every U.S. Military dress uniform.  Everything about this jacket exemplifies American manufacturing! 

Today, your average imported wool blazer costs between $150 and $500, whereas U.S. Made sack-cut blazers from O'Connell's are $400 and Brooks Brothers start at about $450.
Adding this one to the wardrobe only cost me $7, and with a little tailoring could fit quite well.

1980's era Brooks Brothers catalog scan showing a (patch pocket) 3/2 sack blazer. Formal, but informal is the thesis behind preppy apparel, and here we see just that. The swelling around the edges, the patch pockets, the button down collar oxford shirt, the repp-stripe tie, and the penny loafer's he's probably all wearing are the backbone of the Ivy look (not to mention a good jaw-line).

Occasionally, you'll find a string of connected items while thrifting. One example of this was when I found several pairs of NWT (New, with tags) J. Crew pants. In this case we have something even more interesting! Rugby, Ralph Lauren was an offshoot brand of RL that produced preppy-esque clothes for the 16-26 year old market.

 The line existed out of a few shops nationwide which were reknowned at the time for there intricate in-store displays, trying to capture the Collegiate feel with prep-school insignia and vintage sporting gear. While some of their designs were far too ostentatious for my taste, it was sad to hear of their permanent closing in 2012. What I have here is one of their polo shirts, found in new condition!

In the same store I found this green "University Oxford" which is a nice quality OCBD in a color that I don't own. As far as I know, I don't think Brooks even produces a green oxford.  Details include locker loop, Repp striping around the inside collar seam, and 3rd button on the back of the collar, positioned right where it should be to allow this shirt to be worn with a tie. 

Rugby insignia on the chest pocket isn't exactly a plus, but it's different enough that I don't mind it too much.

I also came across these critter shorts which were NWT, but sadly they were jussst a tad too big for me. I'm going to try to sell them as there exists a pretty strong market for Rugby RL stuff since it's retirement, and I could definitely use the money...

I could write a whole article about nothing but Harris Tweed, but here's an example of how to wear one. The herringbone jacket matches well with a blue gingham shirt, and patterned tie. Harris Tweed sportcoats from Land's End start at about $200 on sale (down from $350), but this vintage one I found for only $2.50 on sale (down from $5).

Herringbone tweed jacket illustration from the 1979 BB catalog. Worn here with a repp tie and blue oxford shirt, these items are as stylish and proper today as they were  35 years ago.

Tech-Prep Patagonia is perhaps one of the most desirable outdoor brands. It also comes with a steep pricetag. Fans of Patagonia know however, that this stuff is designed to last just about however, so if you can score a gently (often barely) used Patagucci item, you've just saved yourself a bundle of cash while getting the exact same Patagonia goodness. In this case that came in the form of this Patagonia hardshell for $8, which retailed for at least $140

I'm still on the hunt for that Barbour though...

As usual, here's the numbers-

Total Spent: $32
Total Value: $1,015

Looking at the Numbers (and some finds!)

Do you know how much you've spent on your current wardrobe?

Do you know what it's worth?

To begin to answer these questions, I decided to create a spreadsheet style database to track what is currently in my closet.

I started with (long sleeve) shirts because there seemed to be a simpler criteria to categorize them all. I entered the following information for each shirt in my closet:

• Description
• Maker
• Model
• Collar Style
• Primary Color
• Pattern
• Season (if applicable)
• Category (casual, dress, either)
• Size / Fit
• Condition
• Purchased Price Paid
• Price New (Current Retail Replacement Value)

The price paid does include gifts, and since I was interested in tracking my own expenses, I left these at zero for the few gifts (or hand-me-downs) I have acquired.

I acquired the bulk of my current wardrobe by thrifting over the past couple years. The second largest source would be eBay/online forums with retail stores (in-store and online) being the third.

The price new is a semi-objective tab because there are always sales, and ways of getting things cheaper, but what I tried to do here was put the most accurate market price for a new replacement item (so for example, a must-iron Brooks OCBD new is currently $92).

After inputting the ~65 shirts in my current wardrobe, I have reached the following conclusions that otherwise would have been difficult to assess.

Average price paid for a shirt: $11
Average MSRP Value of shirts owned: $87
Estimated "savings" ~88% off full price

Not only was this helpful in getting a more accurate picture of what I currently own, but for the first time I have some rough idea of what I'm actually spending and it shows that multiple thrift-price purchases do add up.

I made this simple graph to illustrate the ratio of value/expense.

The farther to the left, the lower the out of pocket expense. The bold line indicates buying at "full price" meaning the price paid is the full retail price. As you can see from my purchasing habits, buying at full price is not something I typically do!

If you were to look at an average consumers clothing expenses (unless they only buy clothes on sale), many would probably fall along the diagonal (x=y) line where what they paid is what is being charged for that particular item. The further to the upper left on the graph, the more you exploit the difference in price between new and used. Now, clothing works sort of like cars in the sense that as soon as it's no longer NWT, the re-sell price drops dramatically.

 But, what is good about clothes, is the physical value the item provides to the owner doesn't change. A necktie worn once (or a bunch of times) essentially provides identical economic utility as one that is new on the shelf.

For the purposes of this blog, I define "savings" as the difference between an items full price and what you can acquire it for. 

Full Price - Price Paid = Thrifty Savings

With my current wardrobe of shirts alone, looking at the difference between MSRP and what I paid, I estimate my savings to be around $4,775. Not small change for a college student, where say you are working 35 hours a week for a summer at $10 might net you only $4,200 or so before tax.

Now, what goodies have I acquired since the last update? 

The rare and majestic Patagucci- much an endangered species at the thrifts. This is the first one I've found in 2+ years of thrifting!
Patagonia Synchilla Snap-T Fleece
Retail: $119
Paid: $4

An online acquisition, to add to my obsessive collection of repps
Brooks Brothers BB#1 Repp Stripe Tie
Retail: $80
Paid: $7

This tie I found on sale at a J. Mclaughlin store for 75% off. It's a wool/silk blend and quite thick with vibrant colors.
Possibly one of my most expensive tie purchases to date!Full Price: $80
Paid $20 (sale)

J. Crew Sales continue to bring in the goodies. 
J. Crew 7" Stanton Short
Retail: $65
Paid $15

This pair of brown slim fit chinos clocked in at about $11 after the discounts had been applied.
J. Crew Bowery Chinos
Retail: $79.50
Paid: $11 

Also from J.Crew, These MacAlister suede oxfords (Made in Italy!) were on sale for $70 (down from $140) Taking an additional 50% off and applying the student discount brought my final price down to about $30 for brand new shoes for Fall. One of my best retail scores to date.
J.Crew MacAlister Suede Oxfords
Retail: $140
Paid: $30

I thought I was in a bit of a thrifting lull after having no good finds in a while. Then I come across the exact two shades of Brooks Brothers polo (navy and burgundy) I've been yearning for, and in my exact size! To add to the fun, a Burberry polo
Brooks Brothers Performance Polo Shirt x 2 =
Paid $3 each
Retail: $65 ea. ($130)
Burberry Polo:
Paid: $6
Retail: $150

It's easy to identify good quality sweaters: Just look for all natural materials.
Acrylic? Bad.
Lambswool? Very Good
Merino Wool? Awesome
Cashmere? Really Awesome

J.Crew Merino Argyle Sweater
Retail: ~$80
Paid: $4

I wrote about the Black Fleece Oxford shirts a little in my last post, and I liked the fabric so much that I picked up another on eBay. With these shirts you are getting Thom Browne styling (but not too much), the highest quality oxford cloth, Made-in-the-USA quality, mother of pearl buttons, the list goes on...

This one is a plain OCBD because no man can own enough (quality) oxford shirts.

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece Oxford Shirt
Retail: $200
Paid: $32

Our Total Savings for this post?

$1,120 - $135 = $985

  Nice!

I came across these ties but didn't buy them due to what I considered excessive wear and tear (on top of having way to many ties already).  I did however, photograph them for your enjoyment. These are the real deal- vintage ties from the Yale Co-op and Harvard Co-op. These are exceptionally skinny ties from what I assume is the 1960's, but someone with possibly more knowledge than myself commented that they might even be from the 1930's

A Brooks polo in white, but not in my size, was an easy flip.

Currently up for sale are three Brooks Brothers dress shirts, size 16.5/33
If you like the looks of them, drop me a line for a discount!

Thrifty Summer

Been busy with work and other commitments, but I've had the opportunity to thrift more often than usual since school is out of the way for now. Here's some of what I came up with in the past couple months. 

Keep in mind the following: Thrifting with good results is equal parts luck and skill. 

Luck that you will come across something of value (and that somebody else hasn't first) 

and Skill in being able to evaluate an item for purchase, perhaps instantly, on several factors. 

If you are shopping for yourself, fit is the most important factor. Doesn't Fit? Don't buy. 

Assessing condition and value are also critical skills you will develop as you become a more experienced thrifter. Thrifting effectively is all about separating the wheat from the chaff, in as little time as possible. 

Let's face it: Most thrift stores are filled with 99%  junk that I would't wear if you PAID me. But lurking within you will inevitably find really great stuff, it just takes time and patience. Especially for so-called "grail items" like Brooks Brothers blazers in nearly perfect condition, a Hermes tie or a Barbour jacket. These items are so rare that it may take years thrifting before you find one (if you ever do) and you can then pray it will be in OK condition and then your size. But you do get surprisingly lucky sometimes, and that's the point of this blog: to give some inspiration to keep you all going.

I occasionally find things "too good to pass up" and have been re-selling mostly to cover my costs, on eBay. My auctions can be found under the "For Sale" section of this site. 

Here's what I've picked up for selling recently, and why.

Came across 4 Brooks Brothers 346 shirts in great condition. Because they were all the same size, I sold them as a lot for $54 ($13.50 each). If they weren't in such good shape, they might not have sold.
These are all great patterns that I would wear if they were my size.

Two pairs of like-new Hudson fit Brooks Brothers Twill pants. These retail for about $98 but I sold both for $20 ea. 

Found this University of Idaho tie from Rivety of Boston. 100% Silk and in good condition, I figured I'd make an Idaho alumni happy so I listed it on eBay. There were no other ties of this style currently for sale when I listed it, so it sold pretty quickly. Gone for $11

I will always pick up Brooks Brothers polos if the are in good condition. Sold this along with another for $25 in a package deal. 

Brioni is one of those rare, super-expensive brands you seldom encounter while thrifting. This made-in-Italy shirt, retails for over $300 new, and I was able to fetch $27.50 for it on eBay. If you encounter Brioni while thrifting and it's not too expensive, I highly recommend you buy!
 

Some nice Brooks Makers Oxfords which are currently for sale.

The Classic "University Stripe" shirt is a must have in your wardrobe. Ideally, have three of four!

Classic "Must Iron" Oxford Cloth Shirt from Brooks Brothers. This is one of the most authentically preppy items you can own.  

This was a BIG find for me-- Allen Edmonds Strand in really good condition. What sucks is they are just a tad too large for me, but I'm currently selling them and maybe will put the money towards some quality footwear for myself. These retail for about $350 new and are quite desirable even second hand, so if you see Allen Edmond shoes, buy em!

Now, what have I found for myself lately?

Polo corduroy shorts in fire engine red. Yes, they're quite loud but were only $10 NWT at a local thrift.

Some cool ties from some even cooler stores. From left to right we have J.Press, The Yale Co-Op (What used to be the University store on the Yale Campus outfitting the Ivy League look from the turn of the century onward), and some odd label called "John Bull" 

Found this Made in Italy Polo tie for a couple bucks, you can see here an example of a basket-weave tie, in contrast to a repp. 

Sweet Brooks Brothers thermal Henley in unworn condition. 

I found this jacket bearing the label of a now-gone menswear shop in the same town as my university. This cool-factor, plus the 3/2 roll button arrangement made it a buy for me. I might swap out the buttons for something a little more interesting but it will serve great as a "beater" that can be worn, taken off and folded in a class, and generally something I won't worry about too much considering it is made from a more durable material. 

Worn here with a summer cotton madras tie 

This was an eBay score, but here we have a Brooks Brothers Black Fleece oxford, with an interesting feature. This shirt has a button-down collar (considered casual) with French Cuffs (considered quite formal) making it a bit of a quirky but nonetheless very unique shirt. The material itself is quite nice, as are the mother of pearl buttons. Black Fleece oxfords retail for nearly $200 at full price so it was cool to pick one up at a lower price and get to test it out. Looking forward to some opportunities  ways to wear this.  shown here with a regimental tie and silk knot cuff links. 

I picked up this New but "old stock" (meaning it's something that is still unworn but was made many years ago) pinpoint oxford from a company called "Paul Fredrick. Now Paul Fredrick stuff isn't super expensive or anything, and most people I talk to don't find it that spectacular nowadays, however this shirt has something that sets it apart. Made in USA. I like the idea of domestically made clothing and make an effort to wear US sourced products whenever I can.
On top of that, it doesn't seem like a bad shirt.

 

Two new Crocs (and not the shoes) to the family. The bottom one is a dull shade of green but is photographing kind of brownish, so I apologize for that. Regardless, hard to pass up for $4 ea. now that these Polos retail for ~$89

This shirt was made for the high-end department store Barneys, which is a good sign. Additionally, we see the MADE IN USA label which adds further reason to acquire this shirt. I am not quite sure what company actually manufactured it (probably some maker under contract for Barneys) but with a spread, contrast collar, it will definitely look good with a sport coat or suit.

A GANT "foxhunt" plaid shirt. This one is vintage and has some poly content (usually a bad sign) but the pattern was too nice to leave behind. Modern GANT shirts sell for about $135 and the company has a very preppy/trad history.

Brooks Brothers BB#3 Stripe Repp in Pink/Navy on the left. Another tie of the must-have list! 

Not a thrift purchase but indeed a good price, Target is selling these NATO style watchbands on their site for $7, and they are awesome quality. I applied mine to my Timex Expedition whose leather strap was starting to come apart. I believe this is a better product than what J.Crew or Brooks Brothers sell for $20-$30. I highly recommend you pick a few up!

Found this sick vintage Brooks Brothers fleece zip pullover from what I think is the 1980s. Neat alternative to the Patagucci synchilla with retro cred. 

100% cashmere sweater from Alan Flusser. Some thrifters follow the motto of "No Cashmere Left Behind" and this one was no exception considering it was still brand new with tags. Retail (full price) was something like $230 but I snagged it for $4.
Important: Always check for moth damage before buying anything wool, especially sweaters. There may be a reason it's at the thrift store and not in someones closet.... But if it passes the test, buy it!

I found these RL Polo "Suffield Pants" at a TJ Maxx for $10 (down from $98). While I'm still coming up with a good excuse to wear them, it's hard to pass up such a good markdown.