Thrifty Summer

Been busy with work and other commitments, but I've had the opportunity to thrift more often than usual since school is out of the way for now. Here's some of what I came up with in the past couple months. 

Keep in mind the following: Thrifting with good results is equal parts luck and skill. 

Luck that you will come across something of value (and that somebody else hasn't first) 

and Skill in being able to evaluate an item for purchase, perhaps instantly, on several factors. 

If you are shopping for yourself, fit is the most important factor. Doesn't Fit? Don't buy. 

Assessing condition and value are also critical skills you will develop as you become a more experienced thrifter. Thrifting effectively is all about separating the wheat from the chaff, in as little time as possible. 

Let's face it: Most thrift stores are filled with 99%  junk that I would't wear if you PAID me. But lurking within you will inevitably find really great stuff, it just takes time and patience. Especially for so-called "grail items" like Brooks Brothers blazers in nearly perfect condition, a Hermes tie or a Barbour jacket. These items are so rare that it may take years thrifting before you find one (if you ever do) and you can then pray it will be in OK condition and then your size. But you do get surprisingly lucky sometimes, and that's the point of this blog: to give some inspiration to keep you all going.

I occasionally find things "too good to pass up" and have been re-selling mostly to cover my costs, on eBay. My auctions can be found under the "For Sale" section of this site. 

Here's what I've picked up for selling recently, and why.

Came across 4 Brooks Brothers 346 shirts in great condition. Because they were all the same size, I sold them as a lot for $54 ($13.50 each). If they weren't in such good shape, they might not have sold.
These are all great patterns that I would wear if they were my size.

Two pairs of like-new Hudson fit Brooks Brothers Twill pants. These retail for about $98 but I sold both for $20 ea. 

Found this University of Idaho tie from Rivety of Boston. 100% Silk and in good condition, I figured I'd make an Idaho alumni happy so I listed it on eBay. There were no other ties of this style currently for sale when I listed it, so it sold pretty quickly. Gone for $11

I will always pick up Brooks Brothers polos if the are in good condition. Sold this along with another for $25 in a package deal. 

Brioni is one of those rare, super-expensive brands you seldom encounter while thrifting. This made-in-Italy shirt, retails for over $300 new, and I was able to fetch $27.50 for it on eBay. If you encounter Brioni while thrifting and it's not too expensive, I highly recommend you buy!
 

Some nice Brooks Makers Oxfords which are currently for sale.

The Classic "University Stripe" shirt is a must have in your wardrobe. Ideally, have three of four!

Classic "Must Iron" Oxford Cloth Shirt from Brooks Brothers. This is one of the most authentically preppy items you can own.  

This was a BIG find for me-- Allen Edmonds Strand in really good condition. What sucks is they are just a tad too large for me, but I'm currently selling them and maybe will put the money towards some quality footwear for myself. These retail for about $350 new and are quite desirable even second hand, so if you see Allen Edmond shoes, buy em!

Now, what have I found for myself lately?

Polo corduroy shorts in fire engine red. Yes, they're quite loud but were only $10 NWT at a local thrift.

Some cool ties from some even cooler stores. From left to right we have J.Press, The Yale Co-Op (What used to be the University store on the Yale Campus outfitting the Ivy League look from the turn of the century onward), and some odd label called "John Bull" 

Found this Made in Italy Polo tie for a couple bucks, you can see here an example of a basket-weave tie, in contrast to a repp. 

Sweet Brooks Brothers thermal Henley in unworn condition. 

I found this jacket bearing the label of a now-gone menswear shop in the same town as my university. This cool-factor, plus the 3/2 roll button arrangement made it a buy for me. I might swap out the buttons for something a little more interesting but it will serve great as a "beater" that can be worn, taken off and folded in a class, and generally something I won't worry about too much considering it is made from a more durable material. 

Worn here with a summer cotton madras tie 

This was an eBay score, but here we have a Brooks Brothers Black Fleece oxford, with an interesting feature. This shirt has a button-down collar (considered casual) with French Cuffs (considered quite formal) making it a bit of a quirky but nonetheless very unique shirt. The material itself is quite nice, as are the mother of pearl buttons. Black Fleece oxfords retail for nearly $200 at full price so it was cool to pick one up at a lower price and get to test it out. Looking forward to some opportunities  ways to wear this.  shown here with a regimental tie and silk knot cuff links. 

I picked up this New but "old stock" (meaning it's something that is still unworn but was made many years ago) pinpoint oxford from a company called "Paul Fredrick. Now Paul Fredrick stuff isn't super expensive or anything, and most people I talk to don't find it that spectacular nowadays, however this shirt has something that sets it apart. Made in USA. I like the idea of domestically made clothing and make an effort to wear US sourced products whenever I can.
On top of that, it doesn't seem like a bad shirt.

 

Two new Crocs (and not the shoes) to the family. The bottom one is a dull shade of green but is photographing kind of brownish, so I apologize for that. Regardless, hard to pass up for $4 ea. now that these Polos retail for ~$89

This shirt was made for the high-end department store Barneys, which is a good sign. Additionally, we see the MADE IN USA label which adds further reason to acquire this shirt. I am not quite sure what company actually manufactured it (probably some maker under contract for Barneys) but with a spread, contrast collar, it will definitely look good with a sport coat or suit.

A GANT "foxhunt" plaid shirt. This one is vintage and has some poly content (usually a bad sign) but the pattern was too nice to leave behind. Modern GANT shirts sell for about $135 and the company has a very preppy/trad history.

Brooks Brothers BB#3 Stripe Repp in Pink/Navy on the left. Another tie of the must-have list! 

Not a thrift purchase but indeed a good price, Target is selling these NATO style watchbands on their site for $7, and they are awesome quality. I applied mine to my Timex Expedition whose leather strap was starting to come apart. I believe this is a better product than what J.Crew or Brooks Brothers sell for $20-$30. I highly recommend you pick a few up!

Found this sick vintage Brooks Brothers fleece zip pullover from what I think is the 1980s. Neat alternative to the Patagucci synchilla with retro cred. 

100% cashmere sweater from Alan Flusser. Some thrifters follow the motto of "No Cashmere Left Behind" and this one was no exception considering it was still brand new with tags. Retail (full price) was something like $230 but I snagged it for $4.
Important: Always check for moth damage before buying anything wool, especially sweaters. There may be a reason it's at the thrift store and not in someones closet.... But if it passes the test, buy it!

I found these RL Polo "Suffield Pants" at a TJ Maxx for $10 (down from $98). While I'm still coming up with a good excuse to wear them, it's hard to pass up such a good markdown.

Watch This

I've had RealMenRealStyle.com in my Suggested Reading list since the creation of this site, but this 11 minute video is particularly great at explaining many of the principles this site is founded on. 

Some key points from the video: 

• Thrifted Style can be timeless and not subject to idiotic fashion trends.

• Thrifted items can be found in like (or literally) new condition.

• High quality shoes (Such as Allen Edmonds or Alden) can be recrafted to near-new condition for 1/4th the cost of a new pair.

• Finding (unwanted) ties or other clothes from family members (if they fit) can be a great way to build your own wardrobe for free. (Just avoid the gaudy 1970's style and look for classics)

• Tailoring (either by a tailor or on your own) will gain you near perfect fit which speaks far louder than most material or price based qualities of an item..

• Knowing how and when to buy at retail by monitoring sale cycles and buying out-of-season will save you a lot of money, rather than buying for the immediate or upcoming season as retailers want you to.

For more videos from Antonio Centero, visit his site here

Tied and True

I came across some wonderful vintage finds for my tie collection-- apparently from someone fond of wool ties- as none of these contain silk, instead opting for other natural fibers. A wool or cotton knit tie has a certain texture that silk ties often lack, giving a more casual appearance that can look great year round.

One under-appreciated aspect of thrifting is the history behind some of the items you'll come across. A little bit of research turns up all sorts of details and anecdotes about the past culture of small haberdasheries and how every little town had their own. These have since been replaced by the Jos. A Banks and Men's wearhouses putting out the same cheaply made goods in strip malls across America- with no variation or individuality between them.




From Left to right: 


The tartan (labeled a "Lime Tree Isle") is from a small but famous London shop called the Scotch House which has been shut since 2001 apparently. The two locations now hawk Burberry instead...a sad transformation.

Next we have a cotton madras tie from Rooster, a company known throughout the 1950's and 60's for neckwear, and producer of many trad-friendly designs and patterns.

The red wool repp has a tag from a store called A.S. Cooper Bermuda, which is a store still in business on the island today.

We then have offerings from the holy J. Press and Brooks Brothers. The Press is all wool with a classic tag bearing the name of the San Francisco location which closed its doors in the early 1980's. The Brooks Brothers tie features the Brooksgate logo, used throughout the 1970's as a separate line of items designed for younger men, kind of their "collegiate line" in a sense. 

Image from a vintage Brooksgate Catalog 

The solid blue knit (with a square end) is the only tie without a makers tag, but it does say "Made in England 70% New Wool 15% Mohair 15% Alpaca" so at least it has the bragging rights of being made from 3 different species.

Best part is, the whole lot was only $3 due to a store-wide 50% off sale. Pretty hard to beat that!

Brooks Semi-Annual Sale Details

I received the details on the sale via a mailing today so I thought I'd just quickly share here.

Sale will run: June 20th-July 3rd 2014
Suits, Sport coats, pants and accessories: (up to) 30% off 
Sportswear: up to 50% off 
(Casual outerwear, casual pants, etc)
Dress and Sport shirts: 3/$179(Will go crazy if there are no deals on single purchases....as I put off buying during the 30% sale)
Ties: Buy 2 or more save 50% 
Women's apparel: up to 50% off 
Red Fleece: up to 50% off


Fine print reads: Not valid at factory stores or on Black fleece. May not be combined with other discounts (so I guess the AAAC card/Student discount is out)

There will probably be separate sales going on at the outlets but I haven't received confirmation of this yet. 

I'll post some of my recommended buys on Friday once the sale prices are live. 

Thrifty Retail

 Retail doesn't always have to be expensive, and with some intelligent shopping, you may never need to pay "full price" for anything. Retail stores have limited room for products, and as new items come out, the previous stock must go somewhere. If you're clever with combining discounts, you can score exactly what you've wanted at a price that's friendlier on your summer paycheck. With many stores preparing to offer their summer clearance sales, now is a great time to look for big-savings when it comes to preppy style.

Here's a great example. I was recently in a J.Crew store and noticed they had a sale section. These ACK red chinos for example, originally retailed for $75.00.
They had been marked down to $50, and then again $40, as you can see on the tag.

Now the day I happened to be in the store, all men's sale items were an additional 40% off. That brings the price down to $24.  But it gets better, as I learned that the student discount would apply in addition to the previous markdowns, (an additional 15% off in-store purchases) knocking the price down to about $20.
So by careful selection (and some luck) I was able to get these for less than 1/3rd of their original price

Even better were the grey herringbone trousers which (origionally $88) only ran me $15 after the discounts.

A similar story can be had at a recent trip to a Brooks Brothers "factory store" where I picked up this D-Ring belt (A mainline Brooks product, not made for the outlets) for under $10. The MSRP was around $58.

Continuing with Brooks, who hold frequent sales, I took advantage of a recent sale which offered (If I remember correctly) an additional 40% off on clearance items. I'd been eyeing this particular OCBD with a grosgrain ribbon trim on the placket. 

This ribbon-trim feature I had only previously seen on shirts by Thom Browne (The designer behind Brook's Black Fleece line of what-the-hell fashion). These retail for over $300 so finding a more affordable version (with details such as flap pocket and a slim fit) was a real treat. With the discount applied, I got the shirt for just under $30, and for fun added on a cotton pocket square that was under $10 with the discount applied. 

Further taking advantage of 2-day free shipping (offered when you sign up for a trial of ShopRunner) my $100+ dollar order was reduced to under $40 for an incredible shirt and square...saving me money for future purchases. 

A word on ShopRunner...

One must be careful when signing up as the whole ploy is that this subscription based service will be happy to charge you on a monthly basis even if you aren't buying anything. A discerning consumer however, will be able to cancel before the trial period ends. When I did this, they offered an extension for a few months. I'll have to make sure they don't end up charging me after that but in the meantime it's free shipping so I'm content. Certain American Express cardholders are eligible for a free membership as well so check it out if you've got one. 

So what's next? Well Brooks should be having their summer semi-annual sale soon, which in the past has been ~40% markdowns store wide in mid-late June (after Fathers Day). 

Here are a few items look for: 

THE Brooks Brothers OCBD
Must-Iron, 100% Supima Cotton
Made in USA.

Madras Flip-Flops 

Bow Ties, including some of the reversible variety

Belts, including this one I find really unique from Kiel James Patrick

A variety of boat shoes that may spark your interest. I know these got my attention.

Aside from retail, thrift finds haven't been particularly amazing lately, but here are some things I did catch. 

J.Press Oxford in yellow. I sold it due to the extra-baggy fit but these are a trad holy-grail item, and to think that I found it in a ratchet part of Worcester Ma is even more baffling. 
Paid $5. Retail $101. Sold.

5-Pocket shorts by Rugby Ralph Lauren. Since this (beloved to some) brand doesn't exist anymore, eBay and thrift stores might be your only way to shop for it
Retail ??? (estimated ~$80) Paid $6.

An L.L. Bean Made in USA sweater- Again, a product I don't think is made anymore. I practically want to buy everything I find that's made in America given the rarity at this point, and the fact that it's pretty close to my school color didn't hurt. 
Retail ???. Paid $4.

Tie Rescue

Upon walking into your local thrift store, depending on how it is arraigned, you may encounter something that looks like this:

Image from 100days100ties

If you are lucky, the ties will be arraigned neatly and hung from pegs or some other display board. If you aren't, you will find a large heap with hundreds of neckties intertwined like snakes in a bucket. These will unfortunately be dug through, pulled, snagged, dirtied, and otherwise neglected until someone finds one they like, and saves it from its unsightly end. In my case, I walked in, and among the ratty and weathered 1970's atrocities, plucked out this one right away:

A BB#5 Repp in Red/Navy in like new condition (despite being at least a decade old given the label)

I like to think I'm doing a sort of service "rescuing" these ties..Giving them a new home and a second life. Rather than buried beneath a pile of silk and polyester, they can be proudly displayed in my collection, worn to events, or perhaps passed on to someone who I know could use it. This tie normally sells for $80 new, but I picked it up for a measly $1 bill. So do your part, and liberate a tie in your local thrift shop today. 

As a college student, you certainly need ties from time to time, and why spend upwards of $50 on a tie when you can have better ones for a couple of bucks at most? You won't find a tie this nice in a store like Sears, JC Penny, Macy's, and arguably, on the shelves of J. Crew or Banana Republic. The ties from these stores will be often made in China. But I found this one sitting in a bin, waiting to be rescued like a wide-eyed puppy.  

All silk: Check

Classic repp stripe pattern: Check

Made in USA: Check

It passes the Prep test

Pure luck saved us $78.50 while adding to the collection of BB Repp ties every well dressed man should own

And another word of advice: Look for patterns before labels. Here are just a few similar ties I've thrifted over the past year, each from a different maker:

Brooks Brothers, Robert Talbott, Bentley, The Custom Shop, and Nicky Milano
Combined Retail Price: ~$500