A Guide to Presentation Attire, Part I

If you're a college student, there's no doubt you've attended at least one function that required to dress up a bit more than usual. For the avid followers of the preppy lifestyle, you look good enough to do a job interview at any given moment, but for the majority of the graphic tee wearing demographic, this is where things sometimes can go terribly wrong. I'm writing this not only for the prep set (who ideally have started to build a daily wardrobe around these items already), but for the general college student who wants to look good, but really doesn't know where to start. No, Macy's catalogs are not where to start.

If college is about transitioning into an adult, you sometimes need to look the part, and that means knowing a thing or two about style. Style, in this sense, is dramatically different than the term fashion. Fashion is the physical manifestation of the weird visions that studio art majors have in their head, walking down a runway. Style is what your grandfather wore, and still looks just as good in 2013.

Examples of when you may need to step things up a bit:

• Presentations (For a class, research/academic colloquium, conference, etc)
• Award ceremonies/dinners
• Dances / Parties / Banquets /Receptions (If they ask for semi-formal attire)
• Meetings (If you are meeting with anyone important such as a dean, administration, etc)
• Job / Internship fairs
• Job interview (may require a separate article with additional detail)

The general theme here is that you want to be taken seriously. If it's clear you put absolutely no effort into your attire, people will wonder what else you don't bother to put effort into. It's a mental impression that people will make the moment they see you.

Tie...check.
Pocket square...check
Flash drive with my powerpoint....shit.

So how will I get everything right? Who is to say what looks good or bad? How will I afford this on my meager student income (if any)?   I'll break it down following the thrifty prep philosophy- you can attain everything you need to look better than 95% of people you meet for less money than it would cost to buy a the same quantity of trash lower quality "dress" clothing from a department store. 

Even famous actors get it wrong all too often

The Shoes

A good look starts from the ground up. Some people say the key indicators of someones dressing ability are the shoes they wear, choice of tie, and fit of his jacket. I'm not a shoe expert, but I can provide some initial information that will put you a tier or two above average Joe. 

The two basic principals are as follows 

A- What shoes you should even consider wearing, and 

B- Of the above, what shoes are appropriate for what situation.

Pictured are examples from Allen Edmonds (high quality, expensive, made in USA)

and Bass (made overseas, more affordable, OK styling), as well as a few other makers.  I'm not trying to endorse a particular company or shoe here, just pointing out what I think looks good. That being said, I don't think it's necessary to buy the most expensive shoes out there, but looking at the best will give you a good impression of what to shoot for. 

What you get for the additional money of an expensive shoe is a higher quality product that can be "recrafted", meaning brought to a cobbler to replace the sole, or other components extending the life of the shoe. Don't think you must have to go spend $200+ on a pair of shoes right away. That's not the idea. Instead, try to look at the general styling of what I've posted below and look for a version/brand in your price range that matches as closely as possible. One of my favorite bloggers, Tony, over at CollegeTrad, says every man should have in their wardrobe to start: "5 Shoes: penny loafers, boat shoes, desert boots, athletic sneakers, black cap-toe dress shoes".

I'll assume you have the running shoes covered and focus on the rest. 

The main species...

Oxfords/lace-ups

Oxfords, more or less, are the standard laced dress shoe. There are dozens of varieties and styles, ranging in price from ~$50 to literally as much as you are willing to pay for leather taken from the single sacred cow atop a mountain in the Himalayas. As long as it falls in the oxford category, it's better than some of what else are considered "dress shoes" these days. Some have designs on the toe-box (upper part of the shoe) which can at a bit of uniqueness. This is known in the as "brogueing". I suggest some further reading  as I'm no shoe historian or expert. 

AE Fifth Avenue 

AE Rapid City

Florsheim Lexington

Things to look for in an Oxford

• Rounded toes. Don't buy square toe.
• Leather construction
• Leather soles
• A classic look. Nothing too gaudy. 
• A lightweight design, in a slim silhouette. 
• Not too clunky
• No logos.

Loafers

Loafers, particularly the penny loafer, have a special place in preppy history. 

Originally  brought to the US in the 1930's, loafers were popular across college campuses and by the 1960's were synonymous with the Ivy League look, especially when worn without socks! Maybe the more daring trust fund types might be able to pull this off in an interview, but for the rest of us, dressing up the loafers with some pattered socks is always a good look. Weejuns, while not as great as they used to be, are a good starter loafer and can be picked up at Bass outlets for a reasonable price.

AE Walden, Burgundy

Bass Logan

Bass Weejun

Boat Shoes

Some say they should be strictly kept to the docks (if even) but like it or not, boat shoes are part of the semi-dressy aesthetic, especially in the college aged crowd. They are great for casual wear and will do as a semi-formal shoe in many situations, but don't have it be your only option. Yes, these may be the epitome of the fratty look, but hey, I wear them all the time and they are highly appropriate for many events. 

Sebago Spinnaker

Sperry Top-Sider classics

Formal shoes 

If you are going to a dance, or a wedding, or anything formal, if you really want to look good, it's in your interest to have formal shoes, or at least something that resembles them. These are different in appearance from what most guys kick around the office in, and ideally are of a polished (patent) leather. Black is the color. If you're dapper enough to be wearing a dinner jacket (tuxedo), you'll definitely want to try to complete the ensemble with some good dress shoes. Yes, people will notice you are wearing black skechers instead. Don't do it. Don't. 

A high quality pair is pricey. On the plus side however, if you end up going to lots of weddings, it's a worthwhile investment to have at least one pair. Just use them for special occasions!

Alden Balmorals 

Florsheim Kingston 

...and if you are feeling adventitious, there's always eBay. Seriously. There are some awesome deals to be had.

What NOT to do

Wearing jacket and tie on top, these bad boys on the bottom.

Your running shoes are for when you are running or doing sports. Just like a well dressed person doesn't wear their gym clothes around all day (yes, I realize this is half of the male college population right here doing that daily), you don't wear athletic shoes to anything your are expected to look good at. 

Moving on now,

Pants/Trousers

Thankfully, this category is a little more straightforward. I'll try to lay down a few simple rules and then give some examples of what I consider good purchases. 

Some guidlines:

• Generally, no denim should be worn in this context. Maybe very nice dark jeans would look good in a more casual evening outfit, and if you are already Steve Jobs, who gives a f***, but in almost every situation YOU will be in, there is a better choice. Don't be that guy who shows up in jeans when everyone else has at least opted for something slightly more formal. 

• For dress pants, wool is best. If these are odd trousers, meaning, separate from a suit, they should be  compatible with the rest of the outfit. A darker "year-round-wool" is ideal if you are only going to have one or two pairs.

• Khakis/chinos are a great go-to, just know that not all are made equally. No extra pockets. No strange dragon designs (yes, I saw this today). Be aware of color and shades. Have some darker tones and lighter tones to more seamlessly fit your chinos with different looks.

• While the modern look dictates nothing too baggy, the pants you wear should not resemble leggings (meggings?). If you have a slim waistline, slim fit trousers are great, just know there is always an extreme. Yes, there are people out there who will tell you that extreme is fashionable. Don't be persuaded. 
• 

Good fit (left)

  Too tight (right)

Now for the details: pleats, cuffs, and break.

I'm willing to say I'm not a huge fan of pleated pants, although in the South, supposedly they are still considered de-rigueur. Typically, I feel pleats give off an "older" (read: old man) vibe.

Pleats on left, flat front on right.

Personally I don't wear any pleated pants but this may be a personal style choice, you certainly won't get laughed out of the room for having them.

Break, a term/concept many are completely oblivious to, is precisely how far down your pants go, more or less the length in relation to your shoe.
There is a great article here describing proper pants fitting and the difference between every style of "break".

Personally I am a huge fan of the "no-break" look (the preppy way!) which means the pants essentially hover directly over the shoe top when standing, rather than "breaking" when they hit the shoe, causing the fabric to bunch up on top. 

"No-break" done right.

A more safe choice would be the "quarter" or "half" break, which just has a little bit of the trouser folding over. What looks like garbage to me however, is when the pants are so misfitted they are completely bunched up around the ankle and practically dragging on the floor. TONS OF MEN DO THIS. Look carefully and you will see it all the time. My theory is that men want to think they are taller than they really are and as a result buy pants that are too long...but who knows. 

Too long. The clean, streamline appearance of the trousers is ruined.

Cuffs, are again a matter of preference. I think they look good and add a little weight to the bottom of the trousers to keep them in order. If you have a pair of pants you like but are too long, you can probably easily have them altered and cuffed by a tailor. It's a little harder to make them go the other way however... so don't buy anything that's too short. 

Starting to put things together. Image from inhalefashion.com

Buying recommendations: 

(Keep in mind, everything on this list can be thrifted. It might be worth it to invest in a single pair of very well fitting pants, but if you are lucky, you may be able to thrift them for close to nothing!)

• Land's End Plain Front Tailored Fit Year'rounder Trousers
• Frequently on sale, 100% wool. ~$80 new.

•  Land's End No Iron Dress Twill Trousers
• These are from lightweight cotton twill  $70 
• Did I mention they will hem them for free? Cuffs too.
• Brooks Brothers Milano Advantage Chinos 
• Pricey, but not ridiculous at $90. Even better thrifted for $4 if you can find em.
• J.Crew 
• Easy to find these on sale, even easier to find them in thrift stores. I've scored at least 4 BRAND NEW pairs that were donated by the company to Goodwills. 
• Certainly styled for the younger generation, you'll find plenty of slim fits here. 

The fit and overall shape of the trousers is going to attract far more attention than the actual materials. In the more expensive pants, you are (supposedly) getting a higher quality product that will preform better and last longer. Yes, you can spend $30 or less on every pair of pants you buy new, but they will start looking like rubbish after a few washes, and develop wear and tear faster. 

Coming soon: 

Part II on shirts

Part III on sweaters, jackets, and suits

Part IV on ties and other accessories.