Dress shirts: The Basics.
The shirt is possibly one of the most crucial aspects of your attire to get right. If you aren't wearing a jacket, it's going to also be one of the most visible. For many men, buying a shirt isn't a very big decision making process. Does it have two arms? Does it sort of fit? It has buttons? Great. Put in on. This approach is dangerous because there are a number of details which, when ignored, can completely ruin a good look.
The main aspects of a shirt can be summarized in the following categories. It's important to recognize the importance of each and check to see that the shirt you wear adds up.
Material
If you follow nothing else about this article, at least heed this advice. The material of the shirt is very important to the overall appearance, but perhaps the most overlooked (or ignored) detail.
Most department store shirts, at the entry level, are a cotton/polyester mix. This is identified on the tag with the respective percentages of each (a 60/40 blend is fairly common), and are marked by their shiny (even glossy appearance. While there are a few respectable uses of synthetic fabrics (technical/athletic apparel, swimwear, etc), it does not belong in dress clothing. Instead, strive for 100% cotton at all costs!
Not only is it more comfortable, but it looks better over time, and has a more natural, aesthetic appearance.
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| This shirt was made in the USA and can cost you $5 (down from $80) if adept at thrifting. |
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| This shirt costs you $25 and them $1.50 to make using sickly children a sweatshop. |
You might be tempted to think "Well, I'd rather have 3 cheap shirts than one nice one!" While this logic might work for a little kid who is guaranteed to stain or outgrow them, as an adult, the quality of your shirts is going to start to be noticed and actually matter. More or less, you do get what you pay for (with some exceptions), but if you know what to look for, you can build a wardrobe of high quality clothing at a very low cost.
With 100% cotton being the prerequisite, you now must consider there are many different types of cotton.
On the basic level, most will be quite satisfactory, but I suggest reading up fabrics to become better informed. One big feature that you should pay attention to is whether the fabric has a non-iron finish.
Non-iron has it's advantages and disadvantages. Many experts claim with a non-iron finish (basically a caustic chemical bath that treats the fabric in the factory) the quality is reduced, decreasing the life of the garment. That being said, the shirt will hold a crisper, fresher appearance after machine washing. For a college student with limited access to professional laundering services or ironing, Non-iron for dress shirts might actually make a decent amount of sense. They will come out of the wash with fewer wrinkles than a must-iron shirt. I suggest trying both varieties and always having a couple non-irons on standby in-case you have little time to prepare and just need something that looks good in a pinch.
Now to complicate things a bit further, there are a few different types of cotton, each with different properties. You will often see these in the product description for various shirts. Supima (or just "pima") is a high quality variety of cotton. "Sea Island" cotton is even better, and is (at least historically) grown in the USA. Keep in mind that a cheaper (at retail prices) shirt is going to compensate by having a cheaper variety of cotton. This will mean less breathable, less durable, and less comfortable! If you think dress shirts are itchy and uncomfortable to wear, maybe you've been stuck with lousy cotton-- Another reason to acquire the best quality shirts while thrifting.
There are a number of different fabric styles (weaves) that a dress shirt may come in.
These will mainly affect the appearance of the shirt, as well as the texture of the material.
Chambray, oxford, pinpoint oxford, poplin, broadcloth, end-on-end, and twill are all examples of weaves.
While I can't say one is better than the other for you, recognize the difference in appearance between them and know which textures blend well with other parts of your outfit.
Note, the major variance you'll encounter is probably the smoothness, with oxford cloth feeling rather rough, and poplin feeling very silky/lustrous.
Now to complicate things a bit further, there are a few different types of cotton, each with different properties. You will often see these in the product description for various shirts. Supima (or just "pima") is a high quality variety of cotton. "Sea Island" cotton is even better, and is (at least historically) grown in the USA. Keep in mind that a cheaper (at retail prices) shirt is going to compensate by having a cheaper variety of cotton. This will mean less breathable, less durable, and less comfortable! If you think dress shirts are itchy and uncomfortable to wear, maybe you've been stuck with lousy cotton-- Another reason to acquire the best quality shirts while thrifting.
There are a number of different fabric styles (weaves) that a dress shirt may come in.
These will mainly affect the appearance of the shirt, as well as the texture of the material.
Chambray, oxford, pinpoint oxford, poplin, broadcloth, end-on-end, and twill are all examples of weaves.
While I can't say one is better than the other for you, recognize the difference in appearance between them and know which textures blend well with other parts of your outfit.
Note, the major variance you'll encounter is probably the smoothness, with oxford cloth feeling rather rough, and poplin feeling very silky/lustrous.
The basic lesson in one sentence: Buy 100% cotton only, look for quality fabrics, and recognize the benefits as well as disadvantages of a non-iron finish.
Color/Pattern
In terms of a presentation, interview, or other formal event, you aren't going to want to wear anything too flamboyant. Patterns for sport shirts may include more fun designs, but in a professional environment, you want to stick to the basics. Solids, stripes, and checks are going to make up this part of your wardrobe.
Examples of good patterns. Solid blue, classic stripe, micro check, solid white, and windowpane.
There are many specific variations of stripes (bengal, hairline, pin stripes, candy stripes, multi, etc), with some being more appropriate than others. While attention-grabbing fun stripes are OK for sport shirts for casual wear, dress shirts should have a more restrained look to them. Also, some are just plain ugly. Stick with the classics, you won't go wrong.
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| Bad pattern, too much going on. |
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| A more appropriate pattern- the University stripe |
Bad:
Echoing from the previous post, I really suggest avoiding anything with a satin / glossy finish. It just looks gross on pretty much everyone, in addition to looking cheaply made.
Another note worth getting out of the way, really bold solid colors, and especially black, should not be part of your wardrobe. Some will argue that there is no such thing as a black "dress shirt" and they should be avoided at all costs. That being said, anything too bright or flashy is not going to look good in a professional context (or, depending on who you are, any context).
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| Are you a bouncer at a club? If not you should not wear this color. |
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| You look like a giant blueberry. |
Collar
While you probably already realize one distinguishing aspect of a dress shirt is the collar, you might not be aware that there are several varieties of collar, each with their own implications.
The construction of the collar itself is a good way to judge the quality of a shirt. A flimsy, flabby collar that doesn't hold it's shape isn't going to be a good indicator. Of the collar types, the most common are straight (point), spread, and button down.
Button down collars have a special place in the preppy wardrobe, and are distinguished by the two buttons which hold down the collar points. Invented by Brooks Brothers in the 1890's, this collar style is frequently seen on more casual shirts, but when done properly, can be used on dress shirts as well. The oxford cotton button down is perhaps the #1 go-to shirt for the college student who wants to look good. Oxford cloth is thicker, and almost has a slightly rough texture to it, in contrast to the silky feel of poplin or other dress shirt weaves.
The spread and point collars are similar, with the difference being the angle and length at which the collar points protrude. In my opinion, spread collars look much better than point, especially on narrower faces/figures. A lot of the cheap, entry level dress shirts are point collar, so opting for a spread collar also gives you a little extra distinction right off the bat. Both can look good however, it's just a matter of matching to your face, and other factors such as tie knot.
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| Bond, in a spread collar. Smooth, and sophisticated. |
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| These guys are off to prom... in wrinkly point collars. |
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| BB Oxford Cloth Button Down with Land's End tie. |
The other collar designs, (tab, pin, wingtip) are not so common. Outside of some tuxedo shirts, you won't see any wingtip collars at the office.
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| "Let's get this party started" |
One important final note is on something a many people overlook, collar stays.For shirt collars other than the button-down, the collar points have a little sleeve for something called stays. These plastic (or metal, or bone if you are really fancy) inserts keep the shape of the collar points. It is very easy to lose these when doing laundry, so remove them every-time you wash your clothes, and put them back in every time you wear your shirt. One warning to heed: If the shirt comes with these pre-sewn in, with no way to remove them, do not buy that shirt. I've only seen this on the cheapest of dress shirts and it's just bad.
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| You can also buy replacements at most department stores. Just make sure you have the right size for the collar. |
Cuffs
Cuffs are pretty straightforward. There are two main varieties. Button cuffs, and French cuffs,
Button cuffs are the more prevalent style and you are probably already pretty familiar with them.
French cuffs, are a bit more formal, and require the use of cuff-links.
Many folks believe french cuffs shouldn't be worn without a suit (as they are a more formal style of shirt), and to some, then only with a tuxedo. While there are many ostentatious styles of cufflinks, there are also many more muted designs which aren't too showy. Silk knots are one good example.
I'd suggest having the majority of your wardrobe be regular cuffs, with one or two French cuff shirts for formal wear. If you show up with really nice cuff-links but for example, slack on the rest of the outfit, it's clear you've put all your attention into the wrong place. Also a good tip, check the cuffs of a shirt before buying to make sure you don't end up with the wrong one!
On shirts with buttons, some will have two on the cuff giving the option of an "adjustable size" more or less. You won't see this on "nicer" shirts, and it's a more common feature of sport shirts than dress. Not a deal breaker but again something to be aware of.
Most guys will give up some point around trying on 2 shirts and simply taking the one that seems to look right. Ideally, you are going to want to put a bit more though into it than that. Sport and casual shirts are sometimes sold with alphanumeric sizes (S, M, L, XL, etc), while most dress shirts have two sizing constraints- neck size and sleeve length.
You will want to either measure at home (or at a department store) your exact neck and sleeve lengths, and then shop to these specifications. For tall guys, you will have to look for longer sleeve lengths (36,37, etc) with a smaller neck, as normally (and to much annoyance) typically the shirts also get fatter as they get longer.
Once you know your size, you want to identify an ideal fit. Many makers offer a "slim fit" or even "extra slim fit", and if you are in-shape and in college, you will definitely want to consider trying these. The majority of dress shirts are cut for overweight businessmen in their 40's which will guarantee they will look bad on someone who is slim and in their 20's. Some regular fits are particularly grievous (We're looking at you, Brooks Brothers) as to have so much extra fabric that you could practically make a second shirt out of it.
There's a good article here on fitting dress shirts, and often the best way to do it is take the shirt that you know fits you best, and try to buy more of the same cut. Alternatively you can take measurements of it and look around for another shirt that matches.
What you want to avoid is having:
Summarized into once sentence: Know your size, buy to your proportions, and only wear it if it actually fits you!
(Still having trouble finding anything that fits? Read on to the bottom of the article, where I'll provide a good solution.)
Well, after covering all that, you'd think you would have everything covered. Almost.
There are a few little details you should be aware of just to finish off the appearance you are working to achieve.
One caveat is to avoid any sort of logos printed visibly on your dress attire. Logos have their place on casual shirts and are enjoyable to some, but when it comes to looking professional, there is really no point to them.
Also, check out details like the shirring on the cuffs, pleating (box or side pleats) on the back, and other minor things like button size/constructions. Do the buttons look like absolute trash? Chances are the rest of the shirt does to. On the other hand, signs of quality like mother-of-pearl buttons will reflect upon the rest of the shirt positively.
So now that you know what to look for, what are you going to buy, and how the hell will you afford it?
I'm basing these recommendations on a college student budget, so I'm not expecting anyone to drop $1,000 on new shirts after reading this.
Modern Tailor has a $19.95 trial shirt offer. Others start around $60
More expensive than the rest, but high quality and Made in the USA.
Cuffs are pretty straightforward. There are two main varieties. Button cuffs, and French cuffs,
Button cuffs are the more prevalent style and you are probably already pretty familiar with them.
French cuffs, are a bit more formal, and require the use of cuff-links.
Many folks believe french cuffs shouldn't be worn without a suit (as they are a more formal style of shirt), and to some, then only with a tuxedo. While there are many ostentatious styles of cufflinks, there are also many more muted designs which aren't too showy. Silk knots are one good example.
I'd suggest having the majority of your wardrobe be regular cuffs, with one or two French cuff shirts for formal wear. If you show up with really nice cuff-links but for example, slack on the rest of the outfit, it's clear you've put all your attention into the wrong place. Also a good tip, check the cuffs of a shirt before buying to make sure you don't end up with the wrong one!
On shirts with buttons, some will have two on the cuff giving the option of an "adjustable size" more or less. You won't see this on "nicer" shirts, and it's a more common feature of sport shirts than dress. Not a deal breaker but again something to be aware of.
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| French cuff with silk knot |
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| Button cuff |
Fit/Length
Fit is one of the things many guys struggle with when it comes to dress clothes. Unless you happen to just match up to the exact proportions clothing companies produce their shirts to, or can go out and get all custom-made dress shirts (actually not a bad idea, and I'll tell you why), chances are you might have a hard time finding that perfect fit.Most guys will give up some point around trying on 2 shirts and simply taking the one that seems to look right. Ideally, you are going to want to put a bit more though into it than that. Sport and casual shirts are sometimes sold with alphanumeric sizes (S, M, L, XL, etc), while most dress shirts have two sizing constraints- neck size and sleeve length.
You will want to either measure at home (or at a department store) your exact neck and sleeve lengths, and then shop to these specifications. For tall guys, you will have to look for longer sleeve lengths (36,37, etc) with a smaller neck, as normally (and to much annoyance) typically the shirts also get fatter as they get longer.
Once you know your size, you want to identify an ideal fit. Many makers offer a "slim fit" or even "extra slim fit", and if you are in-shape and in college, you will definitely want to consider trying these. The majority of dress shirts are cut for overweight businessmen in their 40's which will guarantee they will look bad on someone who is slim and in their 20's. Some regular fits are particularly grievous (We're looking at you, Brooks Brothers) as to have so much extra fabric that you could practically make a second shirt out of it.
 |
| But actually. |
There's a good article here on fitting dress shirts, and often the best way to do it is take the shirt that you know fits you best, and try to buy more of the same cut. Alternatively you can take measurements of it and look around for another shirt that matches.
 |
- Sleeves too short/long
- Short sleeves. Don't even think about it.
- Collar too wide/narrow
- Fit too baggy/tight (we don't need to see your six pack through it)
- Length too short (you will want to be able to tuck it in without it popping out)
Summarized into once sentence: Know your size, buy to your proportions, and only wear it if it actually fits you!
(Still having trouble finding anything that fits? Read on to the bottom of the article, where I'll provide a good solution.)
Other details/remarks
Well, after covering all that, you'd think you would have everything covered. Almost.
There are a few little details you should be aware of just to finish off the appearance you are working to achieve.
One caveat is to avoid any sort of logos printed visibly on your dress attire. Logos have their place on casual shirts and are enjoyable to some, but when it comes to looking professional, there is really no point to them.
 |
| Polo loves to slap their pony on everything. |
 |
| The logo removes a notch of formality |
Also, check out details like the shirring on the cuffs, pleating (box or side pleats) on the back, and other minor things like button size/constructions. Do the buttons look like absolute trash? Chances are the rest of the shirt does to. On the other hand, signs of quality like mother-of-pearl buttons will reflect upon the rest of the shirt positively.
My buying recommendations:
So now that you know what to look for, what are you going to buy, and how the hell will you afford it?
I'm basing these recommendations on a college student budget, so I'm not expecting anyone to drop $1,000 on new shirts after reading this.
Buy it new brands:
(Can't find the more expensive shirts at a thrift store? These are less expensive but fairly good value/quality)- Land's End (Available at Sears, or their website, LE has pretty great quality and are always having some sort of special sale) Dress shirts are fairly affordable at about $40-$60. Look for the Hyde park Oxford!
- Eagle Shirt makers. Available at Macy's, often on sale. Decent quality and all are 100% cotton
- Club Room. Macy's house brand, offer a pretty nice slim fit. Decent quality but varies drastically across shirts. I have some I think are great, and some I've realized are rubbish). Most can be had for under $25.
Mid-range brands
Save up, wait for sales, check out outlets, or thrift shop.- Ralph Lauren. A menswear classic, RL has some great dress offerings but make sure whatever you settle on isn't too casual. Great variety of patterns/colors/collars.
- Brooks Brothers Should be no stranger to you by now, the granddaddy of American menswear. Dress shirts retail for about $88, but do go on sale occasionally, and many can be found on eBay (often under $20) or via thrifting (often under $10).
- J.Crew. Mainly produce casual shirts, but have a ok selection of dress shirts as well. Common enough at thrift stores especially if they have a retail chain in your area. Also, check out J.Crew outlets for big discounts as shirts will often be priced at 70% off here.
Other notables: Banana Republic (overpriced version of GAP, but offer some nice slim fits), Forsyth Of Canada, Charles Tyrwhitt
The High End
At ~$150+ per shirt, you won't see me buying any of these new, but keep your eye out at thrift stores and you can pick these up from time to time. Do it enough and you can build your entire wardrobe out of shirts from this category!
Custom Shirts
If you are really looking for that perfect fit (or perhaps don't fit into anything else!), want a pattern you can't find, or complete control over the details of your shirt, I really suggest looking into custom (made-to-measure) shirts. There are several companies providing low cost (but good quality) custom shirts which will be made to your exact measurements
.
You will also be able to pick details such as the exact cuff style you want, many different collar options, pocket options, monogramming, and of course, a fit better than anything you will find in any store.
Natty (Probably not the best name, huh?)
offers a wide variety of options, fabrics, and good customer service.
Most affordable at about $30 a shirt, but they do run discounts sometimes.
Modern Tailor has a $19.95 trial shirt offer. Others start around $60
Hopefully you now know a bit more about shirts, and in combination with Part I, you are now at least halfway done putting together a solid combination.
Coming soon:
Part III on Jackets, sweaters and suits
Part IV on ties and accessories.
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