The Thrifty Prep Guide to Ties

"A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life.”
-- Oscar Wilde

     Ties have been the mark of a well-dressed man for decades, and probably will remain so for years to come. While some see the necktie as the noose of a conformist society around the neck of the free man, and others as incessant fathers-day gifts that are worn maybe once or twice a year, a true gentleman knows how to use ties to their advantage, adding just the right amount of color or pattern to complete a given look.

Truth be told, there are lots of unfortunate ties out there, and as with any part of a wardrobe, there are considerable differences in quality to be aware of as well. In this write up, I'll try to describe the most essential ties for your collection, which brands to look for, how to wear them, and what to wear them with. After reading this article, you should be able to pick up any tie (be it in a department store, thrift store, or your Grandfather's closet, and instantly be able to judge not only the build of the tie, but also the finer qualities and stylistic details that make it special.

Quick access to parts of this guide:

• Materials (The inner-workings)

• The Knot (How to tie)

• Length and Width 

• Styles (Stripes, dots, seahorses)

• Makers (What to look for in a brand)

• How to Buy (At a thrifty price)

Continue Reading

This is meant to be a sensible guide for the college-aged (and beyond) man looking to learn more about ties, and improve his wardrobe.

For tips on how to coordinate color:
AskAndy Guide to Color Coordination
For more about knots and how to tie them:
Tie-a-Tie.net


Material:

You may ask yourself, why does any of this matter? No one pays attention to something like what tie I am wearing.

This attitude will get you through high school. It may even get you through college. But once you are in the real world, and expected to actually look good, people will notice. If you want to get ahead in your career, you want to learn these details (and put them to practice) now, rather than AFTER your job interview.


The material of a tie is perhaps the single most defining characteristic. While most of us associate ties with silk, they also exist ties made of linen, wool, cotton, and (eek) polyester.

Each have different qualities which I'll describe in more detail...but silk are going to constitute the bulk of any collection. Ties, as an accessory, have a wide range of price points. Pricing is mainly a function of material quality, construction quality, and to some extent, demand (for a particular brand).

Generally speaking, cheap ties are easy to spot. The silk used is low quality, the inner lining is thin, and the patterns, visually unappealing. A quality tie however, is just as easily recognizable. The tie will be thick, it will knot beautifully, the silk is intricately woven, and it will hang from the wearers neck with distinction.

The vast majority of ties are produced by a piece of silk being cut and folded around an inner lining (called interlining). For nicer ties, this interlining will be of wool or other natural fibers. Cheap ties? Who knows..maybe Styrofoam if they can get away with it. More expensive ties will have thicker and better quality interlinings which help maintain the shape (drape) of a tie. Cheap ones will look flabby after a couple wearings and stay wrinkled longer. The silk is then hand-sewn along the back, creating the classic necktie shape.

High end ties, will sometimes be made from a single, large piece of silk and are known as "self-lined" or seven-fold ties. These are the objects of desire for tie aficionados and can typically not be purchased new for less than $200. The result however, is a very elegant tie which supposedly knots better than anything else. (I wish I owned one to tell you more!). Some high end ties will also incorporate other exotic fabrics and weaves, such as cashmere and fine linens.

Inside a 7 Fold

The Knot

While there are many ways to technically fasten your tie, there are only two (one, if you are a 

traditionalist) that you will really ever need to know.

The Four in Hand is perhaps the simplest, and most necessary knot to master. With thicker ties (which you will be looking for), the four in hand (FIH) is understated, but nonetheless beautiful .

The result is a relatively small, but sophisticated asymmetrical knot that is somewhat of a calling card for traditional or preppy cohorts. It is also the best knot to use when wearing a button-down collar, which should be a staple in any collegiate wardrobe.

You are going to want to practice dimpling the knot, creating that perfected look that will show off the best qualities of your tie. Here is a guide on how to do it.

Where you will see it:  Ivy League campuses, politicians, Prince Harry, J.Crew catalogs, virtually every prep and tradly guy.

Obama Approves.

Mr Patrick Grant, Director of London haberdashery E.Tautz, 

on choosing the right tie and how to tie the perfect knot

--------------

The Half-Windsor

The Half-Windsor is similar, but involves an extra loop and creates a slightly wider knot. Most consider the half-Windsor a bit more pedestrian...although with a point collar, it frames a little bit better than the skinny silhouette of its FIH cousin. Still, the half-windsor is so widely used that it does have a place in the men's style handbook. Just not the Official Preppy Handbook. It is inherently more formal than the schoolboy FIH, so you might just see it on heads of state and CEOs as well from time to time. While the four-in-hand screams 1960's Kennedy style when pulled off correctly, the Half-Windsor (or his brute brother, the Full-Windsor) give off more of a Gordon Gecko vibe.

I've already received complaints about being dismissive towards the Half-Windsor, but I am just echoing the sentiment I've picked up from tie aficionados I've had the chance to converse with about knots. It can be done quite elegantly, but it is often overused, and in my opinion, has lost its charm. Far too robotic for my tastes.


A great quote from the Put This On blog

"Regarding neatness and symmetry: a necktie knot should never be neat. A necktie knot should be expressive. It should be human. As Glenn O’Brien puts it, “Real elegance involves impeccable taste and a peccable sense of nonchalance." And everyone who’s anyone agrees with us.So: play around with the Pratt or the Half-Windsor. Come back to the four-in-hand. The one that matters."

The Full Windsor: 

I'm not going to tell you how to tie it, because you shouldn't.

Case in point.

Where you will see it:  Weddings, high school proms, Staples salesmen, bank managers, badly dressed Oscar attendees.

As far as the full Windsor goes, it's a rather large knot that might look good if you are a rather large person. Both Windsor varieties look better with a spread collar and should not be worn with a button-down. Bond had a feeling or two about the Windsor knot in "From Russia with Love"

It was tied with a Windsor knot. Bond mistrusted anyone who tied his tie with a Windsor knot. It showed too much vanity. It was often the mark of a cad.

—Ian Fleming, From Russia With Love

Length and Width

One feature of ties that has fluctuated over the years has been the appropriate width. In the 1950's and 60's, skinny neckties were the norm. The corporate power-culture of 80's and general lack of any style whatsoever of the 70's brought upon wider and wider ties--leading to many around 4". These are now quite passé, so avoid them at all costs.

 The general "standard" tie width has resettled around 3.25 inches at the widest point. In the past decade or so, skinny ties have made yet another comeback, and with a vengeance.  Hipster style has brought about some super skinny ties, but the ideal slim tie is about 2 5/8" inches in width. 

The important thing, is to pick a width that appropriately fits your frame, and lapels. If you are a college student, chances are the slimmer ties are going to be best, but they are also harder to come across. 

There are also services which will "slim" any given tie down to the width you desire, but they charge about $20-$40 each. Given that you can thrift a traditional width tie for $1, this could be worth it, being cheaper than a new slim tie at retail, but still possibly more expensive than eBay or other methods of acquiring them in the first place. 

Tie alterations, Check out:

 Skinny Fatties   /   Tie Crafters

Tie width chart:

Idiotic skinny: <2"   

You do not want a pencil thin tie, Regardless of what "GQ" ever publishes. 

Slim: 2"-3"

Perfect for the College kid in good shape.

Normal: 3"-3.5"

Hard to argue with the classics, but be aware of proportions.

Over-sized: >4"

Leave them where they belong...off your neck.

\

As for the length, this is something people mess up ALL the time and it is fairly embarrassing. 

Proper tie length has the long end resting essentially right at the top of your belt buckle. Not half way between there and your navel. Not three inches below the belt.

Note: Are you a tall guy?  For gents over 6' feet, you may need to look into extra-long neckties. This will ensure you have enough material to properly tie your tie. Regular ties are approx. 58"-59" long, while X-long ties give you a bit more, clocking in at around 62" inches. 

Too short

Too long

Correct length

Tie Styles

Now that you are familiar with how to wear the tie, we'll turn our attention to what tie to wear.

Solid Ties

Considered by many to be the most basic, solid ties actually can have a good deal of complexity. 

Forget about wearing a shiny, smooth, plain solid tie. These are cheaply made and look every bit so. You will look like a waiter, or a DJ at a bad Bar Mitzvah (depending on the color). A couple solid ties are essential, but you should shoot for something more distinct, such as a grenadine which is a silk tie knit with a textured weave.

 Tighter weaves that still look good do exist, as well as those made from other materials. Look for solid ties in wool (for winter), linen (for summer), and twill. Solid ties can scale from casual to rather formal, depending on the texture and finish. The looser the knit, the less formal the tie. Can you guess who looks better in the two photos below?

Sean Connery wearing a  solid grenadine

Despite its simplicity, solid tie can make a bold, powerful statement. 

Wear it with: Solid ties go with pretty much anything. Ideal for striped or loud jackets (including Go-To-Hell patchwork!), solid ties tend to have a grounding effect that tones down an outfit, no matter how eccentric.

Image from Ivy-Style.com

Striped Ties

Perhaps the most essential tie in the preppies wardrobe, the ever so perfect striped tie. In their earliest form, striped ties were not simply decoration. Regimental striped ties originated in Great Britain as a way to signify membership in a military unit, club, or university. The stripes were always ran from the wearers left shoulder to right. As such, the tie was not simply a decoration, but almost a  method of communicating between individuals who recognized your stripes. In the days before "ANY COLLEGE HERE" t-shirts and hoodies, this is how you identified your fellow comrades! As such, it was a big no-no to wear the tie of another school or organization to which you were not affiliated. 

King's College, Cambridge

Trinity Boat Club 

Royal Air Force

St. John's College, Cambridge 

Now, over in the old US of A, Brooks Brothers decided that these ties could be marketed here as well, with a simple modification. They reversed the direction of the stripes (as to not offend the Brits) and started selling ties to the general populous based on the classic regimental designs. By the 1960's repp ties had become popular across Ivy League campuses and became a staple American look. Brooks has kept several designs consistent for the past 50+ years, which are given the special designations of "BB#1 through BB#5" 

BB#2 

 

Vintage BB#1

While these designs seem simple (and are often imitated), there is something defining about them in the same sense that united the wearers of the original regimental ties. Wearing a BB repp stripe is like tipping your hat to an American tradition. As such, they are still quite popular with those in government, and prepsters alike. 

Learn the defining pattern of each...and collect them like Pokemon cards. For a more detailed breakdown, read this article by friend and fellow blogger, OCBD.

Congressman Paul Ryan in a BB#1 

BB#3 Repp in Navy/Red

BB#4 in Red/Navy. Perhaps my favorite tie!

BB#1 in yellow/blue

BB#2 with gold framing around blue stripes

                     

Michael Bloomberg, Mayor of NYC.

BB#5 repp. Similar to the #4 but with much narrower stripes. 

Buy it in your University's colors

Now, I'm not saying by any means Brooks Brothers should be the only striped ties you seek out. Quite a few other makers have striped ties which garner a similar level of respect. Robert Talbott and Ben Silver ties are very good in this regard. Some may even argue that the Brooks stripes are so common in certain circles that they have become a cliche. I saw nonsense, but if you are worried you might be mistaken for your State Representative while out and about in town, you might want to try some of the less explored color combinations offered in each stripe.

Pair it with: 

The obvious choice is a navy blazer. OCBD, Blazer, Repp tie, and some penny loafers, and you are on the same tier as JFK for style sense. Repps also look good with a navy or grey suit. I would suggest NOT wearing them with a pinstripe suit, or anything else too loud. The striped tie deserves some attention to itself. 

A Warning:
Now, what I've illustrated above are the striped ties that fit into the prep-sphere. There are many times more varieties of striped tie that don't carry the same cachet, usually because of gaudy design. You'll notice the ones above are simple, yet highly elegant. Let's compare for a moment with some lower tier designs. Striped, yes. Preppy? No. Perhaps it it their overuse of colors or specific geometric designs, or maybe their lack of pedigree, but these ties, while still technically striped, are an antithesis of prep. Good examples of bad designs, all currently available for only $27.50 at your local department store.

I suggest take your $27 and head directly to eBay, and type "Brooks Brothers" under accessories. Most can be had for under $15, and will look (and feel) better than anything you will find in Sears, JCP, or Macy's for twice that.

 

Now, onward. 

Club Ties / Motif Ties 

Polo Ralph Lauren Heraldic Club Tie

Club ties are embossed with repeating small symbols, which can be shields, crests, little anchors, critters, or god-knows-what. They are a sort of cousin of the regimental tie in that they often have some membership associated with them (in the form of little yacht-club burgees or school crests). There are many generic varieties as well however, if you are looking for little elephants or sailboats. 

Often times you will also see a crossover of the striped tie and the club tie. There is a fine line between tasteful and tacky, and it's easy to cross with club ties. In my mind, they are teetering on the edge of formality and irony...so tread with caution. 

Another Polo offering

Printed Ties 

Perhaps one of the most powerful weapons in the neo-prep arsenal, the printed tie. A certain company came to fame starting off selling nothing but these, the famous Shep and Ian of Vineyard Vines founded their company based on these wacky things, which soared to popularity in the past two decades.

The informal nature of the ties dictates their preppy appeal: These aren't ties for selling insurance in. They are ties for strolling the streets of Charleston or Nantucket, with your navy blazer and Sperrys, and have major frat appeal. A tie to match your drunken personality must be properly outfitted with the appropriate starfish pattern, and not some stuffy regimental stripe! The antithesis of formality however, has actually worked to their advantage in a way. Because of their Martha's Vineyard heritage, the jet-set Senators who vacation there (and stuffier Nantucket), like to show off their Vineyard Vines ties with pride. Especially Senator (Now U.S. Secretary of State) John Kerry, who has commissioned VV to produce custom neckwear for him (and his campaign). 

You will notice from a distance, you can't really identify what is on the tie. 

Warren Buffet wearing a VV "Bull and Bear" tie.

Georgetown University

The Ubiquitous Vineyard Whale geometric

For the Elephant in the room

Who doesn't like marlins?

As for you, I'd say have a few in stock, but as with everything, don't over do it. There is a time and a place for VV and if you bust it out right, it will be a hit. Wear them every day, and well, you couldn't really try harder not to look good. Wear them while you can in College, and after that, well, think long and hard about it.

Now, I mention VV primarily here because they are the undisputed king of the style, but copycats have emerged, namely from Tommy Hilfiger and similar department store labels. While there isn't anything inherently wrong with these, do note that they probably aren't made in the USA, and probably aren't as nice quality wise as the equivalent VV tie. That being said, I wouldn't spend the $70 asking price at retail for a Vines tie, so scout out eBay, VV Outlets (if you can find one), and if you are incredibly lucky, the thrift stores.

This one is perfect your next court-mandated AA meeting. 

Where to wear:

Oceanside weddings, Kentucky Derby parties, Yacht club functions, SEC Fraternities, Ohio State tailgates, The Grove @ Ole Miss, The hedge-fund managers company picnic.

Now, I should mention, the process of creating printed ties applies to many other types of tie and design, some of them quite respectable and lacking in similarity to the ones featured above. For the sake of this article, assume these to fall under the category of patterned ties.

Patterned Ties

Perhaps one of the largest categories, patterned ties have some design that repeats itself in a geometric pattern. These can consist of

• Dots (polka dots, pindots)
• Floral (little things that look like a flower petal, sort of)
• Paisley (An amoeba type pattern with various embellishments)
• Squares (of various sizes and arrangements)
• Checks (small crisscrossing lines, often diagonally)
• Links, chains, dozens of others....

Patterned ties (when done right) are actually on the upper half of the formality spectrum. The more understated the design, the better. These can be worn with suits, with the scale and texture of the design being the determining characteristic for formality. Simple dots may be one of the sharpest patters there is.

My collection of patterned ties is not quite as diverse as stripes, but I'll show a few examples to give you an idea of what to look for.

Two vintage patterned ties from Press.

Brooks Brothers floral with a diagonal arraingement

BB Floral with a grid arraingment

Pin-dot tie. 

This tie might appear to be solid, but it's actually a very small check pattern.

A perfect example of mixing patterns 

What to wear it with: 
A spread collar shirt is ideal. Button-downs pair more nicely with less formal ties (being less formal shirts) but can be used in some cases. Patterned ties work with all suits, but particularly well with striped or check patterned suits where a striped tie might clash.

Other Styles:

Of course after publishing this, I realized I was forgetting a few very important styles. Please note however that the following have a rather low rank on the formality spectrum, so wear them to casual events and not job interviews.

Madras / Plaid ties

A great Go-To-Hell accessory  Wear a madras tie in the summer, and a tartan or blackwatch tie around the winter holidays.
The Tie Bar has a great selection

Seersucker ties 

Summer written all over it

Tie Makers

First, lets take a look at the stratification of tie makers across the quality/price spectrum


Trash Quality:
$5 ties you can buy on eBay (new from China) or on the streets of Chinatown. Despite the appealing price, do not purchase these. Almost guaranteed to be polyester, or fake silk, or the worst silk in the world. These basically shout low quality, and will probably fall apart before you can wear them.

Entry Level Quality:
$10-$30. Ties from discount/department stores. Most certainly made in China, and the designs won't be that appealing, but if you have zero other options, they may do. Look for 100% silk, and don't buy any made of Polyester. JC Penny actually has some designs which are not too terrible under their Stafford Line, but they will be imported (and probably a bit flimsy).

Basic:
$30-$50. Ties from companies such as Boss, Nautica, Izod, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Lauren Ralph Lauren. Can be decent quality and some classic designs, but the construction quality may be lacking. Most likely made in China, a handful are USA sourced. Quality may be inconsistent, however decent ties can be sourced from this category.

  

Also see The Tie Bar, offering a wide variety of ties at this level of quality for $15 ea.



Outlet Designer: 
Made for outlet ties from Brooks Brothers 346, Polo Ralph Lauren, J.Crew, Hugo Boss, Banana Republic, Jos. A Bank, etc. I will also add in Land's End to this category. They have the company name on the tie, but often they are not the same ties sold in "retail" stores. Prices range from $20-$60 depending on the sale. Usually, they are better than the basic level (but not in all cases!). Some (most, if we are lucky) will be Made in USA, some will be made in China. Always check.

Name Brand:
~$70-$130

Mainline ties from Brooks, Robert Talbott, Vineyard Vines, Ralph Lauren, Charles Tyrwhitt, Thomas Pink, GANT, J.Crew.

Usually pretty decent quality although you will still want to inspect carefully, as always. Wearing ties from this tier will set you above probably 90% of the tie wearing population in terms of quality and elegance. You will also be getting Made in USA / England quality.

 Most of these ties are considered by most sartorial experts as "middle of the pack" quality. There may be some really nice ties in the mix, but are only about halfway to the top in terms of what exists. These make good workhorse ties if you must wear one every day to work or an internship (just not the same tie, please!).

Hand-sewn Talbott ties made for small haberdasheries, acquired via thrifting.

High End:

Ben Silver, Ermenegildo Zegna, Drakes of London, Sam Hober, Hickey Freeman, Hermes, Ralph Lauren Black Label, Turnbull & Asser, the list goes on.

These ties have a superior level of workmanship and are made from finer materials than what is typically available. These ties are also much more likely to be handmade, by expert craftspeople. 7-Fold silk ties start at this level. As a reader mentioned to me, the high end designers of neckwear have access to specialized mills and higher quality materials that are truly produced in quite limited supplies. While most likely inaccessible to most college students at retail, when you are making the big bucks later in life, look for these names for exceptional quality.

Ultra High End/Luxury:
$200+ You might have to think someone is crazy if they are willing to spend $250 on a tie, but for those wearing $4,000 suits and $400 shirts, this isn't a big expense. These are the Rolls-Royce of ties, the best of the best, but as a result, they are also exceedingly expensive new.

Italian brands such as: Brioni, Borrelli, Charvet, Isaia, Gucci, Kiton, Stefano Ricci, and Zegna are the majority of what you will find here. Also notable is Ralph Lauren's Purple Label. Quality doesn't necessarily go up in all cases, but for celebrities (and wanna-be celebrities) who have money to blow, (or CEOs who want to outdo one another), this is the only type of tie they will wear.

Some luxury ties are more fashion oriented than anything else, and designs, ironically, may start emulating those seen at the basic tier in regards to ostentatiousness. At the same time however, there are some stunningly beautiful ties here in only the best materials in the world. Note here that I'm not attempting to be dismissive of the quality of these ties, but they are indeed a luxury accessory meant to show a bit of glamour or grandeur.


Warning: Do be aware that just as people sell fake Gucci handbags, there also exists fake luxury label ties. Specifically Coach, Hermes, and similar have been counterfitted. Just a heads up :\

How to Buy

Now that you know what's out there, it is just a matter of building your collection one way or another. You could walk in and pay retail price for any of the ties here, and walk out a happy (albeit poorer) customer with a nice little gift box and receipt. Smarter still, is the man who waits for steep discounts or semi-annual sales to pick up a variety of neckties, maybe 40-50% off retail prices. This brings the $70 ties down to a more palatable $40 ea, which is approximately what a good Brooks Brothers or similar tie is really worth.

Now, if you think we're settling for one tie for $40 at The Thrifty Prep, you would be mistaken.

The next best spot is eBay, where there are hundreds of ties (from every designer there is) being sold every day, for a lot less. Just look for photos to make sure they are in good condition and free of any marks.
Brand Name ties can be easily had for under $20, and often the high end or luxury ties for under $50.

Also, as I have mentioned before, a great place to start building your collection is The Tie Bar. The quality alone won't upgrade you into the corner office, but they do have an incredibly wide selection and very reasonable prices.

But what if I told you you could have any tie on the list above for $4. How about $1? Sounds too good to be true right?

Enter the thrift stores! 

Now, while a majority of the ties you will come across will be outdated or ugly or not so nice, there are also an alarming number of very good ties out there as well, and often for the exact same price. Sometimes you will have to do a lot of digging about, but when you find the so-called diamond in the rough, you will be glad you did.

The richest individuals will see their old ties like you see your old socks, disposable. And they dispose of them at your local Goodwill or Salvation Army. Reap the benefits of this.

A stained or heavily wrinkled tie is no good, so when looking for used neckwear, this is going to be your #1 enemy.  Sometimes this is exactly why people donate their ties, so ALWAYS check the entire tie very carefully (in good lighting!) for stains, snags, runs, pulls, anything bad. If it has any imperfections, ditch it. It will be a very sad day when you find an otherwise perfect Hermes tie, with a ink blotch or other cosmetic imperfection on the front, but you will have to turn it down.

Don't worry, There is still some good news

 Believe it or not, there will be ties in perfect condition (or near perfect, or good enough) quite frequently. YOUR job is to instantly spot the ties that are worth $80+ retail dollars and distinguish them immediately from the ties that are worth $0. Hopefully this guide has set you in the right direction.

If your local thrift store turns up nothing in regards to ties (maybe you live near an area where there are no corporate offices or no tie-wearing people), make an effort of visiting thrift stores when you travel. The thrift stores in New York City, Cincinnati, Washington DC (and suburbs), Boston, and anywhere else with a corporate culture are GREAT places to score fantastic ties. I've never come up short when I'm in a big city.

All thrifted or purchased online for cheap, All made in the USA.

What else can you do to get ties for cheap? Ask your Dad (or even Grandfather) if they have any they no longer wear. Depending on their sense of style (and background), you might be walking away with some 1970's disasters, or some cool ties from the Princeton University shop. 

I'm sure this isn't a completely comprehensive guide, but hopefully after reading, you are a bit more knowledgeable about ties, and excited to expand or improve your own collection. You can never have too many nice ties. 

Good luck out there. 

-AD 

"HEY, WTF? Where are all the BOW TIES??"

Sorry folks, I wanted to first do a feature on long ties, but I'll surely do a write up on bow ties in the near future.